Showing posts with label new york times. Show all posts
Showing posts with label new york times. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Silicone, scones, and a mat made in heaven

Yesterday morning, when I was making my favorite scone recipe from The Best Recipe, I got thinking about the difference my silicone baking mat has made in my life as a baker.

To read me waxing poetic about said mat (and to learn why it belongs on The Apartment Gourmet’s site) go here.

Otherwise, get yourself a mat of your own and treat yourself to a batch of these scones. You won’t be disappointed in the baking or the eating—I promise.


Sweet Milk Scones
Makes 8 or 9 3-inch scones

What you’ll need:
Measuring cups—liquid and dry
Measuring spoons
Large mixing bowl
Whisk or fork
Spatula
Rolling pin or empty bottle of wine or the like
3-inch biscuit cutter or round drinking glass with approx. 3-inch diameter
Baking mat
Baking tray

Ingredients:
2 cups flour, more for dusting
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp cream of tartar
1 scant T sugar
4 T unsalted butter, cold
3/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup dried currants or blueberries (optional), plumped in warm water for 5 minutes

Instructions:
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Combine dry ingredients in large bowl and mix thoroughly with whisk or fork. Cut butter into small pieces and toss to coat with flour. Using your fingers, press butter into flour mixture using a squeezing motion until mixture resembles coarse meal with a few larger lumps of butter. If you’re using currants or blueberries, stir them in. Working quickly, make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the milk. Stir together with a spatula, making sure to scrape up dry bits from sides and bottom of bowl, until a wet dough forms. Thoroughly flour a work surface and your rolling pin or bottle. Turn dough out onto surface, sprinkle some flour on top, and roll into 1/2 inch thickness. Using a floured biscuit cutter or drinking glass, cut 3-inch scones and place on mat-covered baking tray, at least 1/2 inch apart. Roll scraps together into 1/2 inch thickness and cut again until all dough is used.

Bake 10-12 minutes, or until golden, rotating the tray halfway through.

Notes:
Several weeks ago, I made a three-citrus curd from a recipe featured in the New York Times. As curd flavors go, it’s divine. As recipes go, it’s not the best, or the most well-tested, that I’ve ever made. The curd never thickens to a true curd-like consistency; mine turned out more like custard, as did the curd of a friend of mine with whom I consulted, despondently, after the fact. But it is, custard-like or not, great on these scones, as are preserves of any kind. After all, what are scones but a vehicle for toppings?

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Confined fine dining

As guilty pleasures go, mine are pretty innocuous. For example: Toothpicks.

Well, not really toothpicks. Toothpicks are a metaphor for guilty pleasure number one: The New York Times Dining Section. I start thinking about the dining section on Monday morning when I read the Times. And then I think about it all day Tuesday. By Tuesday night, I'm beside myself with anticipation. And that, you see, is where the toothpicks come in. Because if you stay up late enough on Tuesday, you can read the section when it's first posted--usually, just before midnight--and by that point, my eyes aren't fused shut only because I've propped them open with toothpicks.

Call me crazy, but I have to admit: For me, reading Dining & Wine as soon as it's out is the half the fun of reading it at all. And after going to bed post-dining section for months on end, I'll add that if you thought Clement Clarke Moore was kidding when he wrote about nighttime visions of sugar-plums, you'd be wrong. My recent dreams have included everything from seafood pancakes to three-citrus curd. Is it any wonder that I'm ravenous by the time I awake on Wednesday?

Another guilty pleasure is my obsession with haunting the cookbook section in any bookstore, anywhere in the world. Even Barnes & Noble. Even Borders. My local favorite is undeniably the Brookline Booksmith. But, truth be told, when I need a fix, I will stoop to the level of a chain.

Between the dining section in the Times, and the hundreds of cookbooks covering every subject from raw food to international cuisine, you'd think I'd be well on my way to recipe saturation. (Did I mention I subscribe to several cooking magazines, too?) And yet, every new article about food, every fresh take on an old standard, every recipe rivaling some restaurant fare, only fans the flames of my excitement.

And it got me thinking: What do I have to add to the discussion?

Looking around at my apartment-sized kitchen the other day--a kitchen larger than most kitchens in apartments of this square footage--it hit me. Because how many people who love to cook (or love to eat) have restaurant- or test-kitchen-quality spaces in which to work? How many have endless expanses of counter top, or the kitchen technology (stand mixers, food processors, ice cream makers, etc.) to create the kind of photo-shoot worthy fare featured in the dining sections of renowned national newspapers?

I don't. But what I lack in counter space, I'm hoping I'll make up for in creativity. Because cooking in an apartment kitchen doesn't need to be a lesson in frustration. It doesn't need to be an experience limited to tasteless, boring fare, or, even worse, prepared food. Though it does call for simplicity.

My hope is to show that simplicity is not a euphemism for compromise. Instead, it's a recipe for fine food, no matter what your space constraints.